Alternator ground wire not connected

Alternator ground wire not connected

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alternator ground wire not connected

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Thread starter emergpa1 Start date Mar 7, JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. Oct 2, 1, Island Packet 31 Brunswick, Ga. Hey guys, quick question. Want to know why A red wire from my solenoid to my alternator is not connected to the alternator.

I have a Yannmar 3Gm The wire has never been hooked to the alternator as I can tell. The engine diagram shows the wire going from the solenoid to the alternator. The fused switch wire and of course the wire coming from the battery switch is connected. I am currently wiring a balmar external smart charger for an alternator upgrade.

I am sure I will have more questions!

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Maine Sail. Now a similar question ha ha why does the wire come off the alternator to the cooling water temperature light. This wire, I believe, excites the voltage regulator? Why does it come off the water cooling water temperature light?

And of course, most importantly, how do I connect it to on the Balmar external regulator wiring harness? Hmm trouble loading two photos here is the other one. Perhaps it is simply there to confuse me, causing me to stop, scratch my head and spend quite a bit of time wondering about that which has no answer? Well guys, I wish you would hurry up I'm trying to wire this damn alternator and balmar external regulator sitting in the engine compartment of my cockpit and I'm in Brunswick and it is actually spitting snow.Remember Me?

General BMW Discussion. How do I know if my alternator is grounded correctly? Page 1 of 2 1 2 Last Jump to page: Results 1 to 25 of Thread: How do I know if my alternator is grounded correctly?

Thread Tools Show Printable Version. I am on my 2nd alternator. I was doing my clutch and while putting the trans back on got a little frustrated and physical with the trans. I go and start the car, drive around and then the lights dim and the ABS and whatever come on.

I am stranded and the car won't start. Chaulk it up to a bad alternator. I buy a alternator from BMW and put it in, I'm getting a bunch of check battery lights. I bring my battery back and they say it has a bad cell. I get a new one and while driving Where is the alternator grounded, and could I have knocked that around???

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Usually the the alternator case is the ground, check your ground straps from engine to frame,tranny to frame if applicable, and accessory from firewall to engine. This alternator does have a positve and a negative cable that hooks up to it.

You don't happen to know where the grounding points are? Originally Posted by patrick S. A good way to see if your alternator is good is to keep your engine running, and while its running, take off the negative side of the battery and if the engine dies, the alternator is bad or the connections are not connected. If it stays running, the alternator is good and the problem lies somewhere else. I went back in to see if my bolts were tight and, no they wern't. Actually there is one long bolt and 2 thick wires.

I hooked up the big red cable to the bolt and the small black wire to the ground point. However, when I went to tighten them, there was another large black wire that I had completey forgot to put on. Does both the large black and large red wires go on the same boltThey were discussing the possible purposes of life as they ate sugar and suffocated in their own excrement. Because of their limited intelligence, they never came close to guessing that they were making champagne.

I understand the concept of fusible links but they are not installed directly from the battery to the alternator from the factory. I am looking for more of an education of the subject not just a "do this".

Fusible links also come in different gauges so wouldn't that be just as important to the answer? Going through the cars regular wiring resulted in the alt seeing too low a voltage causing it to try to generate more power to charge the batter, thus putting a heavier load on the engine and belt resulting in belt squeal. The direct wire gave a truer reading of the batter voltage at the alt, ie higher, resulting in less alternator load and eliminating the resultant belt squeal. At least, that's what I 'think' it was about.

Dave www. GM has started to place fusible links between the alternator and battery. The LS4s had a A one and I kept it for my swap. Running a cable directly from the battery to the alternator used to be the common way to hook them up.

The only concern adding a direct wire is protecting it so it doesn't get pinched, rubbed, cut, etc I bought a car from him sight unseen and drove it back down here to Texas.

If OE alt wiring is too thin now then make a new heavier wire and fuse link and put sense wire to alt output. Works and less headaches for most people. Might find heavy PnP alt wire jeggs etc. Sound system issues? See my Cave, Watt Story to understand cap use.

Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.

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In the same post I read here on this site a while ago the guy also ran a ground from the alternator to the battery. When I took the alternator off it was loose at the bottom bracket. Also the top bracket that connects to the side of the engine and accommodates the dog bone had a bolt on the bottom that was very loose.

Now I am wondering if my alternator is OK but the ground was not adequate. I went and bought a rebuilt alternator and saw it had an area for a ground wire to be hooked up. When I took off my old alternator there was that same area for a ground wire to be hooked up also but it was not connect. SO I was going to do both, hook the ground to the ground on the battery and connect the positive on the alternator directly to the battery.

My fix for this on the new alternator was that I thought as many people do "if a little is good then more is better". I did not question the ground because I thought a ground is a ground. What I hear you recommending is that I probably should not connect the alternator ground to the battery either but connected to the motor so it will be in the 'allotted range' to avoid a "ground loop". Now I am wondering if there was really anything actually wrong with my alternator except a bad ground.

alternator ground wire not connected

Do any of the parts places check alternators out of the car by putting them under a simulated condition in the car? Or is that not necessary any more. I as recall that was done with generators.All Rights Reserved. The material on this site can not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, except with prior written permission of Multiply. Hottest Questions. Previously Viewed. Unanswered Questions. Electrical Troubleshooting. Where is the Ground wire on alternator from battery?

Wiki User There usually isn't one. The vehicle becomes the ground, and since the alternator is physically attached to the engine, the case of the alternator becomes the ground. Note that the battery is also connected to the vehicle chassis, usually at 2 or more points, and that the engine usually has a grounding strap to some solid point on the chassis. Related Questions Asked in Alternators, Car Batteries, Batteries Can a bad alternator burn the wire between the battery and alternator?

Yes, if it shorts to ground internally. Asked in Batteries How do you wire alternator to a battery to test alternator?

Asked in Car Batteries, Mitsubishi Galant Why would the alternator in your Mitsubishi galant not be charging the battery when it is not defective?

Wire from solenoid to alternator not connected, why

Asked in Car Starting Problems Will a bad ground wire ruin an alternator? Asked in Car Batteries How do you replace battery cables? You have to disconnect the ground wire from the block. You have to disconnect the positive wire from the starter and the alternator and the powerline going to the fuse box. Asked in Alternators, Car Batteries Why does battery go dead when hooked up but alternator is good in geo metro? ALternator fuses, if equipped may be on the battery post, in a fuse box, or in the wire going from the battery to the alternator.

Asked in Classic Ford Mustangs How do you convert a mustang generator to an alternator? Not much to it, get the one wire alternator, and brackets from a and mount it up, belts will be the same as thewire goes to the battery. Asked in Car Batteries, Buick Park Avenue What would cause a good battery to not stay charged on a buick park avenue 86? I know this is why mine on my vehicle would not stay charged. There are a two ways to wire an alternator. It depends on what type of vehicle options you had on your If you have just lights you use the Stator on the back of the alternator.

There are only four things on the back. If you have lights and not gauges GT's The stator will be the wire in the middle of the three wire feed to the Alternator. The ground will ground to the engine block and the black wire on the harness. The White wire on the harness is the Field wire and goes back to the voltage regulator.

Disconnect the battery ground, disconnect the wire from the back of the alternator which goes to the battery positive, unbolt the alternator from the bracket, detach any remaining wiring from the alternator, the replacement procedure is the same in reverse.

It's a pretty simple task. This wire allows the alternator to keep the battery charged. You do not connect any wire from the alternator to the starter.We are commonly asked how to wire the Delco SI series alternators upon maintenance or upgrading from an older generator.

If you are looking for the no charge indicator light on the dash to function as well, this should help determine which connection to use. The ignition switch is most commonly powered from the starter battery stud, but source may vary depending on application. With key on power is then transferred through the no charge indicator light to the 1 spade on the alternator regulator connection.

Depending on switch circuitry there may also be a diode before the 1 spade to prevent the current when charging from back feeding the ignition switch and not allowing unit shut down. The third spade connection in this diagram is optional and will not be present on all units. This is one of the three phase connections and is most commonly used to function electronic tachometers.

This connection is not necessary for unit to function even if it is present.

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The 1 regulator connection must be off with ignition off to prevent battery drain. Alternator ground connection is the casing, grounding back through bracketing and eventually through battery ground cable.

Make sure all connections, including battery ground cable, are clean and tight. Always use caution when modifying a system. Hi Peter — the should be a good replacement with the R terminal to operate the tach. Can anyone recommend an alternator with AC tap to operate a tach.? Output should be about 60 amp. Just make sure it goes off with key off. It could be either, the tachometer is reading the speed of the alternator regardless of what type of engine is powering it.

Blade three is used for the tachometer. Would you engine need to be a gas for the tachometer to work or can it work with a diesel? Your name. Your email.

Your message. Share this post Previous post Next Post. Comments Dave Smith - April 29, Hi Peter — the should be a good replacement with the R terminal to operate the tach.

How are GM SI series alternators wired without a warning lamp?When our hot rods were new, the limited output of the alternator was enough to sustain the power needed to run the engine with the headlights on. Back then, high-amp stereos, electronic ignitions, and fuel injection were not part of the power draw on the battery.

That meant there was no need for high-amp alternators. Amp ratings range from toand include either a single or double V-groove pulley, or a six-groove serpentine pulley. Now however, those classic cars are receiving upgrades like high-output ignitions, stereo systems that shatter windows, and add-on electronics that definitely put a serious draw on the stock alternator.

It has a patented, low cut-in regulator. Tuff Stuff's OEM or one-wire alternators are usable in both one-wire and three-wire installations. With a one-wire install, simply connect the charge wire from to alternator battery post left to the battery. Tuff Stuff does recommend upgrading the charge wire to a larger gauge smaller numberas the factory wiring might not be capable of carrying the extra amperes without melting. If you plan to use the factory three-wire installation, install the charge wire to the post, then remove the black plug right and connect your factory two-wire connector.

As lights and other accessories draw current from the battery, energy is replenished by the alternator. To keep the battery fully charged, the alternator must provide more amperes than the accessory load on the battery.

alternator ground wire not connected

That is not true. If the voltage regulator is properly functioning, it will safely keep the battery fully charged and ready for use.

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To figure out what amperes output you should use, simply add up the amperes usage of everything in the vehicle. That includes headlights and tail lights, electric fuel and water pumps, and high-power stereo systems. There is no easy answer, as both styles have come a long way in regard to the technology they incorporate.

Upgrading the charge wire is highly recommended, as the factory wiring might not be up to snuff with the new, high-output alternator. Tuff Stuff has dedicated charge wires that are large enough to carry the amperes, and have high-quality, crimped-on brass connectors.

Tuff Stuff recommends an 8-gauge wire for its amp alternators, and a step up to a 6-gauge wire if the battery is in the trunk. A amp unit should use a 6-gauge wire, and 4-gauge to the trunk. All amp units should have a 4-gauge wire and a 2-gauge to the trunk. If you are starting a project from scratch or you want to minimize the amount of wires in your engine bay, a one-wire alternator will simplify the installation. The only drawback to using a one-wire alternator in GM vehicles has to do with the ALT warning lamp idiot light on the dash.

The two-wire connector houses the exciter wire, which is responsible for turning off the in-dash light. However, Tuff Stuff alternators like the, and series can be wired to turn off a warning light. To wire a warning light using one of these battery chargers, simply remove the black terminal plug on the housing and connect the R terminal to the warning-light wire.

Without a good ground, no alternator will properly charge a battery. If the block, brackets, and alternator have no paint or powdercoating to hinder metal-to-metal contact, you might be able to get away with the bracket making the ground connection between the alternator and engine.

alternator ground wire not connected

This entailed running a wire from the battery post on the alternator to the R terminal at the two-wire plug location. Years ago, the enthusiast-created one-wire system required engine RPM to be at a level higher than idle to start the charge process.

This required a quick blip of the throttle. That is no longer the case. Tuff Stuff one-wire alternators utilize internal components that will keep the battery charged, even at idle. But, what sets the Tuff Stuff alternator apart from others, is the fact it can be used as a one-wire or a factory-designed three-wire system.

Using the alternator in either instance requires no extra effort on the part of the end user. If you wish to use the three-wire system, connect the charge wire, remove the black plug at the two-wire terminal location and plug in your wiring.To submit a Frequently asked question request just put "FAQ" in the subject heading and send to info qsalts.

Click here for our extensive guide, "How does an alternator work? When upgrading to a higher output alternator you should always install a larger wire between the alternator and battery.

Even with a standard output alternator you will get better performance and life out of your alternator if you upgrade the main battery wiring. The original wire just isn't large enough for proper power transfer. If you are using your alternator to it's maximum output or when you upgrade to a higher output Alternator you must increase the wires size.

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An alternators ability to send the power it is making to the battery is directly related to the wire size and quality of connection between the alternator and battery. Also, a wire that is to small when used on a high output alternator can cause the power to back up within the alternator making it overheat, burn up and fail. Another area that little is paid attention to is the ground. You must also improve the ground as well.

A poor ground will hinder the alternators ability to send power to the battery and can burn an alternator up just as fast as an inadequate alternator to battery wire. Your ground may be fine when you first install your alternator but over time corrosion and resistance builds up in the ground connections. This is why it is best to run the ground directly from the rear of the alternator to the battery.

Here is another great auto electric tip from National Quick Start Sales on upgrading the wire between the alternator and battery. Randy says, you do not need to rip out your old wiring when upgrading. You can piggy back a second wire between the alternator and battery.

The main battery wire connected to the back of the alternator has power to it at all times, even when the vehicle is shut off. You connect this wire like normal then you run a second wire between the alternator and battery.

The power coming out of the alternator will treat the two wires as one, power follows the path of least resistance. On a safety note, when running the second wire you should fuse it near the battery. The fuse is just in case the wire gets pinched or shorted out, the fuse will blow instead of the wire burning up.

You should use the largest fuse you can for the wire size, fuses are restrictive to current flow. A self exciting or "One wire" alternator as it some times called, has only one wire running to it. Don't confuse one wire because the plug going to the alternator only has one wire to it, this is a two wire system.

The one wire, self exciting alternator uses a special voltage regulator that doesn't need an ignition wire to activate it. This type alternator only requires a battery wire hooked to it. The voltage regulator contains circuitry that uses the residual magnetism in the alternators fields to determine when to turn the alternator onthe regulator does this by sensing the RPM the alternator is turning.

When the alternator gets to a certain rpm the voltage regulator "turns on". Typically you start the vehicle, rev the motor slightly then the alternator starts charging. This type alternator is commonly used on custom cars, trucks, tractors and other non standard applications when wiring is a factor.

In choosing this type alternator you must consider, do you want to rev your motor slightly to get the alternator to turn on. Also, when using the self-exciting alternator on tractors or other slow turning motors does the engine have enough RPM's to start the alternator charging. This can be overcome by using a smaller pulley or by adding an ignition wire. Is another name for the Self-Exciting Alternator mentioned above. You only need connect the battery wire one-wire. Most standard and all self-exciting regulator alternators will work using the two wire setup.

Two wire means that you use the battery wire and an ignition wire to activate the alternator. With this setup the alternator starts charging as soon as the engine is running. When you upgrade your existing alternator you shouldn't need to upgrade your voltage regulator.